Most of my time here in Iraq is spent sitting at my desk in my office at our apartment in Dohuk, but sometimes we have to go around and see all of the people that we work with. I do not spend a lot of time talking about work, but just know that we work with a lot of different people. So we decided to spend three days driving around the country. I took my good friend James with me. It was an interesting trip.
James and I have traveled around Kurdistan a few times and since I have been here we have used cars to travel. As I am a large man and all cars are built for small people I do not always find traveling comfortable. Walking around Dohuk James and I have seen a lot of large SUV’s that take people from Dohuk to Syria, Jordan, or Turkey. They are all owned by Assyrian Christians as they can cross borders much easier then Kurdish people can, but that is a different story. To add to our comfort level James and I decided to hire one of these SUV’s to take us around Kurdistan. The standard fee is $250 per day for the vehicle. We negotiated with a guy to allow us to take one for $150 per day and we paid for hotel fees, food, and gas.
Our driver picked us up at 8 o’clock in the morning. As usual we had to wait for out interpreter. He is not really that punctual, and he is not a fan of getting up early in the morning. Once everyone was gathered together we got into the SUV and headed out of town. Our driver quickly drove us outside of the inner city and drove us into a village on the outskirts of town. I was a little curious what was going on because I know my way around the city very well but I was going to places I had never seen before. After going down two dead-end streets I asked my interpreter where the driver was going. That is when I found out that my driver spoke Syriac and Arabic and my interpreter spoke English and Kurdish – with a smattering of Arabic. I could not believe my luck. I had asked for a driver who spoke Kurdish, my interpreter always told me he did speak Arabic. So here I was already with two liars in the car and a driver who did not know his way around. It ended up that the entire trip James and I told the driver where to go. That is right the two people who did not grow up in this country and did not make their living by driving around knew where to go much better then the two who did. Amazing how that worked out.
After our fiasco with the driver not knowing how to get out of the city, including finally getting to the high-way and trying to drive the wrong direction on it – we left town. The first city on our list was Erbil, and as that is a pretty straight road that we had taken many times James and I decided to catch a few zzzzz’s on the way there. James climbed into the back seat and I stayed in the middle. Even though out driver passed every vehicle known to man and seemed to find every bump in the road I did sleep most of the way. The only thing that really bothered me is deciding whether my pillow should be on the ceiling of the car of the seat…I was not sure where I spent the majority of my time.
Making our way into Erbil we sent to the Erbil International Hotel to visit our bank to get some money for out trip. We have the same bank in Dohuk, but they are only open when they fell like it. Once our banking was done we made our way to Koya.
Koya is a small little town located on the eastern side of Iraqi-Kurdistan. Traveling there we passed a lot of beautiful scenery. Erbil is located in a plain in-between two mountain ranges. Exiting Erbil we were surrounded by flat farmland that was turning green under the grateful eye of the flocks of sheep grazing up and down the flat landscape until is slowly gave to the undulating plains and then the rolling foot hills. Off in the distance you could see the majestic reign of the mountains with their white crown standing guard over the region. Soon we left the plains and entered into these mountains. Our driver weaved the serpentine path the roads take mimicking the most playful of streams until we began to climb into the welcoming folds of the mountains.
Speckling the great rocks were small towns filled with history and life. There villagers were watching the sheep or tending to their fields. Their existence harmonizing with nature seeming at contrast with the great heartache that so often swept through this land. I will have to say that I envied those people. Many times I have dreamed about living a life like that.
Arriving in Koya we saw a city that was long and narrow. Built around their main road the city never moved out, but instead followed the road up to the base of the mountain. There was evidence of construction everywhere. James and I then met with some of our working contacts and had lunch with them. After lunch we said our goodbyes and left for Sulemaniya.
Again we had a problem with James and I knowing more about where we were going then our driver did. It was good that by this time he knew to just listen to us. We left the city and traveled though the mountains towards Sully. We stopped a few times along the way to take pictures. Even though we told our driver to slow down and to not tailgate the people in front of him he must have thought we were in some major hurry because he even passed people while cresting hills – many times. I thought we were going to die more then once. There was this beautiful little mountain town near a dam and our driver got stopped at the check point entering the city. This was the first checkpoint that asked to see his driver’s license. This was when I found out that our driver had one, but it was expired. He then wanted us to pay the $200 fine that he got. I told him that this was his problem and one that I did not have any reason to pay for. So he paid the $120 fine and we were on our way.
When we got to Sully we saw another city that was bristling with cranes and construction. I would even have to say that Sully has more construction going on then any other city in Kurdistan. We made our way to the Sulemaniya Palace Hotel and booked ourselves for the night. James and I spent most of that night on our computers answering emails – I know we are such rabble rousers.
That next morning James and I met with more business contacts and finished by noon. We then checked out of our hotel where I learned that our driver spent over 78,000 NID (around $60) in room service and mini-bar fees. I could not believe it…. I paid it and then quickly made a point to tell my driver an interpreter that the food in the room ------ not free! As this was the first time for my interpreter in a hotel I was not that angry.
Leaving Sully we went back to Koya but this time by a different route. I would have to say that I liked this route much better. I took many pictures and you can see them in my album. It was beautiful. I think that a combination of being so enraptured by what I was seeing and battle fatigue led to me not really mind our chauffeur’s driving-style. Especially when we drove this switchback trail up the side of the mountain that would crest us to overlook Koya - - - I was speechless. The beauty of the surrounding mountains left me gasping for breath. We stopped the SUV at the crest of the hill and looked east into Iran where the blue mountains rose from a lake bed to touch the sky. The tips of their peaks were covered with snows white blankets of cleansing. The plains below seemed to run right into the sides of the monstrous peaks giving birth to a vertical climb that mocked the greatest achievements of man. Down near the base of the mountain you could see many small villages and one large village adding character and life to something that could be painted on. My camera tried to capture even one slice of this beauty but it was a loosing battle. Not even the greatest painter with the largest of canvases could capture the panoramic view that was there.
Turning around the view was vastly different but no less awe-inspiring. On the other side of the pass lay the town of Koya. From here you could look at the city life scurrying about on the business of being busy. The town gave way to flat plains and rolling hills that showed evidence of the great city that had once been. As far as the eye could see the ground was scored with what was once buildings, farms, houses, lives, and death now silenced by a dictator that squeezed a people until someone finally squeezed back. Because of this – Americans are loved in Koya. You see Koya was the next city on Saddam list. He had plans to force the population of Koya to leave or he would kill them all. It was his plan to then level the town, dig up all the graves, poison the ground, and place land-mines in the mountains. When the US came in 1991 he was stopped. This is part of history that seldom gets told.
Going down the mountain we met again with some of our friends in Koya and then continued on to Erbil. We had a lot of meetings there during the day. We did a lot of work and were very happy to find our beds in the Dim Dim Hotel that night. This time out driver wanted to stay in his truck and our interpreter stayed in the room with us. That cut costs a little bit – but I am not sure if it cut frustration, but that is a story better left untold.
The next day James and I met with more contacts and friends. We then went to the Erbil International Hotel where we ate lunch and talked with someone who might come and work for us soon. After our meal we made our way back to Dohuk. The interesting part is, that I was starting to get used to our drivers erratic and dangerous way of driving. I think I would have been completely OK with it if he did not insist on smoking at least three packs of cigarettes on our trip. I was afraid I would never get that smell out of my clothes.
We got back to Dohuk in one piece. Our driver was under the impression that we were going to be gone for four days instead of three and wanted me to pay him for the fourth day as well. By this time I was tired, cranky, smoke logged, jostled, hustled, and lied to too many time. I think that was either evident in my voice, mannerism, body language or some combination of the three because he quickly said to forget it and that he was thankful for what he got. All in all if was a very informative trip. I now know that I am going to learn Kurdish and try to buy my own vehicle….that way I never have to use a driver again.
James and I have traveled around Kurdistan a few times and since I have been here we have used cars to travel. As I am a large man and all cars are built for small people I do not always find traveling comfortable. Walking around Dohuk James and I have seen a lot of large SUV’s that take people from Dohuk to Syria, Jordan, or Turkey. They are all owned by Assyrian Christians as they can cross borders much easier then Kurdish people can, but that is a different story. To add to our comfort level James and I decided to hire one of these SUV’s to take us around Kurdistan. The standard fee is $250 per day for the vehicle. We negotiated with a guy to allow us to take one for $150 per day and we paid for hotel fees, food, and gas.
Our driver picked us up at 8 o’clock in the morning. As usual we had to wait for out interpreter. He is not really that punctual, and he is not a fan of getting up early in the morning. Once everyone was gathered together we got into the SUV and headed out of town. Our driver quickly drove us outside of the inner city and drove us into a village on the outskirts of town. I was a little curious what was going on because I know my way around the city very well but I was going to places I had never seen before. After going down two dead-end streets I asked my interpreter where the driver was going. That is when I found out that my driver spoke Syriac and Arabic and my interpreter spoke English and Kurdish – with a smattering of Arabic. I could not believe my luck. I had asked for a driver who spoke Kurdish, my interpreter always told me he did speak Arabic. So here I was already with two liars in the car and a driver who did not know his way around. It ended up that the entire trip James and I told the driver where to go. That is right the two people who did not grow up in this country and did not make their living by driving around knew where to go much better then the two who did. Amazing how that worked out.
Making our way into Erbil we sent to the Erbil International Hotel to visit our bank to get some money for out trip. We have the same bank in Dohuk, but they are only open when they fell like it. Once our banking was done we made our way to Koya.
Koya is a small little town located on the eastern side of Iraqi-Kurdistan. Traveling there we passed a lot of beautiful scenery. Erbil is located in a plain in-between two mountain ranges. Exiting Erbil we were surrounded by flat farmland that was turning green under the grateful eye of the flocks of sheep grazing up and down the flat landscape until is slowly gave to the undulating plains and then the rolling foot hills. Off in the distance you could see the majestic reign of the mountains with their white crown standing guard over the region. Soon we left the plains and entered into these mountains. Our driver weaved the serpentine path the roads take mimicking the most playful of streams until we began to climb into the welcoming folds of the mountains.
Speckling the great rocks were small towns filled with history and life. There villagers were watching the sheep or tending to their fields. Their existence harmonizing with nature seeming at contrast with the great heartache that so often swept through this land. I will have to say that I envied those people. Many times I have dreamed about living a life like that.
Arriving in Koya we saw a city that was long and narrow. Built around their main road the city never moved out, but instead followed the road up to the base of the mountain. There was evidence of construction everywhere. James and I then met with some of our working contacts and had lunch with them. After lunch we said our goodbyes and left for Sulemaniya.
Again we had a problem with James and I knowing more about where we were going then our driver did. It was good that by this time he knew to just listen to us. We left the city and traveled though the mountains towards Sully. We stopped a few times along the way to take pictures. Even though we told our driver to slow down and to not tailgate the people in front of him he must have thought we were in some major hurry because he even passed people while cresting hills – many times. I thought we were going to die more then once. There was this beautiful little mountain town near a dam and our driver got stopped at the check point entering the city. This was the first checkpoint that asked to see his driver’s license. This was when I found out that our driver had one, but it was expired. He then wanted us to pay the $200 fine that he got. I told him that this was his problem and one that I did not have any reason to pay for. So he paid the $120 fine and we were on our way.
When we got to Sully we saw another city that was bristling with cranes and construction. I would even have to say that Sully has more construction going on then any other city in Kurdistan. We made our way to the Sulemaniya Palace Hotel and booked ourselves for the night. James and I spent most of that night on our computers answering emails – I know we are such rabble rousers.
That next morning James and I met with more business contacts and finished by noon. We then checked out of our hotel where I learned that our driver spent over 78,000 NID (around $60) in room service and mini-bar fees. I could not believe it…. I paid it and then quickly made a point to tell my driver an interpreter that the food in the room ------ not free! As this was the first time for my interpreter in a hotel I was not that angry.
Leaving Sully we went back to Koya but this time by a different route. I would have to say that I liked this route much better. I took many pictures and you can see them in my album. It was beautiful. I think that a combination of being so enraptured by what I was seeing and battle fatigue led to me not really mind our chauffeur’s driving-style. Especially when we drove this switchback trail up the side of the mountain that would crest us to overlook Koya - - - I was speechless. The beauty of the surrounding mountains left me gasping for breath. We stopped the SUV at the crest of the hill and looked east into Iran where the blue mountains rose from a lake bed to touch the sky. The tips of their peaks were covered with snows white blankets of cleansing. The plains below seemed to run right into the sides of the monstrous peaks giving birth to a vertical climb that mocked the greatest achievements of man. Down near the base of the mountain you could see many small villages and one large village adding character and life to something that could be painted on. My camera tried to capture even one slice of this beauty but it was a loosing battle. Not even the greatest painter with the largest of canvases could capture the panoramic view that was there.
Turning around the view was vastly different but no less awe-inspiring. On the other side of the pass lay the town of Koya. From here you could look at the city life scurrying about on the business of being busy. The town gave way to flat plains and rolling hills that showed evidence of the great city that had once been. As far as the eye could see the ground was scored with what was once buildings, farms, houses, lives, and death now silenced by a dictator that squeezed a people until someone finally squeezed back. Because of this – Americans are loved in Koya. You see Koya was the next city on Saddam list. He had plans to force the population of Koya to leave or he would kill them all. It was his plan to then level the town, dig up all the graves, poison the ground, and place land-mines in the mountains. When the US came in 1991 he was stopped. This is part of history that seldom gets told.
Going down the mountain we met again with some of our friends in Koya and then continued on to Erbil. We had a lot of meetings there during the day. We did a lot of work and were very happy to find our beds in the Dim Dim Hotel that night. This time out driver wanted to stay in his truck and our interpreter stayed in the room with us. That cut costs a little bit – but I am not sure if it cut frustration, but that is a story better left untold.
The next day James and I met with more contacts and friends. We then went to the Erbil International Hotel where we ate lunch and talked with someone who might come and work for us soon. After our meal we made our way back to Dohuk. The interesting part is, that I was starting to get used to our drivers erratic and dangerous way of driving. I think I would have been completely OK with it if he did not insist on smoking at least three packs of cigarettes on our trip. I was afraid I would never get that smell out of my clothes.
We got back to Dohuk in one piece. Our driver was under the impression that we were going to be gone for four days instead of three and wanted me to pay him for the fourth day as well. By this time I was tired, cranky, smoke logged, jostled, hustled, and lied to too many time. I think that was either evident in my voice, mannerism, body language or some combination of the three because he quickly said to forget it and that he was thankful for what he got. All in all if was a very informative trip. I now know that I am going to learn Kurdish and try to buy my own vehicle….that way I never have to use a driver again.
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